One of the challenges of owning a recreational vehicle is keeping all amenities functional. Failure to do so leads to all sorts of problems. For example, a broken air conditioning or clogged toilet can make trips inconvenient and sometimes cause delays.
A heavy-duty vehicle like an RV is also high maintenance, so there’s little room for setbacks.
But malfunctions are inevitable and commonplace in RVs. Unlike the amenities in a house, those in an RV are exposed to vibrations and lateral forces, which they are not built for. They also experience more temperature fluctuations as you travel from state to state.
Most appliances bear up to this hash condition. But some, like the refrigerator, have delicate electronics. You must be able to fix most electronic or mechanical blips in your RV to continue traveling stress-free. You may not easily find a mechanic or service center when you need one.
How to Fix Norcold Fault Code L1-oP?
First, if you have a Norcold refrigerator, good for you. Norcold is one of the leading manufacturers of RV refrigerators in North America.
Their products are built to adapt to an RV’s unique environment. This brand is among the pioneers of automatic switch systems, enabling refrigerators to switch to propane when they no longer use shore power.
Like any other equipment, however, Norcold refrigerators malfunction from time to time. One of the issues you may encounter with your fridge is the infamous L1-oP.
This fault code appears on the unit’s digital monitor blinking. But, of course, it also indicates that your refrigerator isn’t working.
But what does it mean?
If you search for the L1-oP fault code on the manufacturer manual that came with your refrigerator, you’ll see these:
Fault Code Meaning: “The high temperature limit switch is open.”
Corrective Action: “This is not owner serviceable. See your dealer or authorized Norcold Service Center.”
This information raises two vital sets of questions:
- What is a temperature limit switch? Where is it? Why is it open?
- Why can’t I fix it? What if there’s no authorized service center nearby?
Temperature Limit Switch
The temperature limit switch is a device that switches off the refrigerator when the boiler overheats.
Like any dual-fuel refrigerator for RVs, a Norcold refrigerator has a boiler that heats the coolant to trigger the refrigeration process. It works much like a regular fuse in an electrical system.
You can find this switch on the back of the refrigerator and the other electronics and wiring. But first, you need to open the small door outside your RV.
Many RVs have two vents on the compartment where the refrigerator is installed, and the door to the back of the fridge usually doubles as the lower vent. This is important because one condition involving the lower vent may lead to L1-oP.
There can be several reasons why the temperature limit switch was tripped (or is “open,” as the manual describes), from a malfunctioning condenser fan to a worn-out compressor to inadequate ventilation.
However, the fault code is generally associated with an overheated boiler and is often a false alarm. But thanks to this switch, you can prevent overheating from causing a fire in your RV.
Why should I contact an authorized service center?
Because the origin of overheating that supposedly trips the temperature limit switch is hard to determine, most RV experts, even from Norcold, urge owners to leave the repair work to them. This way, you’ll avoid damaging your refrigerator.
Many problems arise from a DIY repair. For example, you might mistakenly cut or unplug a cable. Also, if you’re not careful with your tools, you might damage delicate electronics or loosen a fastener. Therefore, it only makes sense to entrust such a complicated task to the experts.
It Doesn’t Hurt to Try the Famous Reset Routine
Despite the strict instruction to avoid fixing the problem yourself, there’s a quick fix you can try. It’s safe to do without the aid or supervision of a mechanic because it’s the advice they would give you on the phone, anyway.
If they don’t mind telling you that secret in a phone call, it means they expect that you can pull it off on your own.
This reset involves using a magnet small enough to be placed on the side of a typical module. This module is the first thing you’ll see when you open the door to the back of your refrigerator. It’s a square black device with wiring on the front and side and a distinctive red LED.
A lit red LED confirms the L1-oP fault code. If you place the magnet on the right side of this device, you will hear two consecutive click sounds, which signifies the reset.
If the problem is solved, the red LED will shut off. You can then check the digital panel on your refrigerator to confirm if the code is gone.
But this may not always work, and the fault code might appear again after a few days. In that case, you have to call it in. If that’s not possible, you can call the Norcold service hotline again and ask what the next best step is.
Here Comes the Most Definite Solution—Parts Replacement
The person you’ll talk to through the Norcold service hotline will ask about your refrigerator’s model number and the temperature limit switch’s model number.
Each refrigerator model comes with a specific module model, and the reason you’re getting an L1-oP fault code is that your refrigerator has the incorrect module. In other words, an incompatibility issue.
However, before giving out your module model number, remind them that you are giving them the model number, not the kit number.
Norcold sells its modules in kits containing a module and a sensor. The problem is the sensor has a different model number, too. Hence, they decided to give the kit a separate number, which they usually use to check for compatibility.
If the person you are talking to is a customer service representative and not a technician, chances are they don’t know this, and they will mistake the kit number for the module number. So if you give them the module number, they’ll probably say you have the wrong module on your fridge.
That’s why you need to tell them it’s the module model number you’re giving, not the kit number, just in case they’re unaware. You don’t want to buy a replacement part that costs around $80 or more only to find out it’s the same as what you currently have.
Even if you need a new module, it’s still important to mention it so that the person you’re talking to knows that a compatibility issue does not cause the L1-oP. This way, they can look at other possible reasons and give you more accurate advice.
Conclusion
L1-oP can be frustrating, especially when no one can tell you the most accurate fix. But it’s also a good thing because even if it’s often a false alarm, there’s still a chance that it’s true, and it has prevented a fire that might have cost you your home.
Just remember the magnet reset routine and the replacement procedure.
It’s also a good idea to have a spare refrigerator so that you have somewhere to store perishables if the replacement parts you purchased aren’t arriving until a few days. In addition, many small fridges work on AC, so you need shore power available.
